Category Archives: Climbing

Bouldering in Fontainebleau, France

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Once again I headed down to more southern latitudes for some more world class bouldering. Last trip in March got me in love with the thickly forrests around the small city of Fontainebleau, just south of Paris. Fontainebleau is truly magical; thousands of top quality boulders in a beatiful setting. This time we stayd in a gite in another nice little village called Boutigny-sur-Essonne, located a little west of the major bouldering areas.

Magnus Palmestål on the dazzling problem El Poussif 7A+:

We’ve heard of a brilliant problem called La Baleine 7A+ in the area Petit Bois. Even with a GPS we spent close to an hour finding the parking for this small place. Surprisingly the area turned out to be packed with swedes that we know a bit from home. We had a nice, friendly few hours there before we took of to Bas Cuvier. However, we did find La Baleine and quickly sent it, and what a nice problem it was. Recommended! Here’s an american strong girl trying it:

Again, the area Franchard Cuisiniere was in the end one of the favorite areas. At the end of the day we found a really nice, sharp arete which offered a perfect backlight photo scene:

After a long day out climbing hard, you need to treat yourself with a taste of the french cuisine:

Our local security force consisted of the sturdy german shepherd Elsa. One evening when I was leaving the gite she scared the shit out of me when I opened the door to step outside. There she was, only a foot in front of me, like the muscles from Brussels… I jumped, and
so did she! Then she wagged the tail and wanted to play with the ball as usual…

The approach to the area of Apremont:

And last but not least: remember, you are never alone in the woods…

Fontainebleau, France

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I went to Fontainebleau, just outside of Paris, to do a feature story about the bouldering here for the magazine Brant. You will find it in print in the fall.

In the forrests around the picturesque village of Fontainebleau in France loooms many bouldering areas, mostly known as Font. This is the birthplace for modern bouldering, and people come here year round from all over the world. This was my first trip here, and it just blew me. Amazing. Fantastic.

A typical Font face:

Many royalties have spent considerable time at the huge castle Chateau de Fontainebleau.

The small villages surrounding Fontainebleau are weekend destinations for wealthy Parisians. Driving through the village of Burron Marlotte, you’ll see many mansions like this:

Peter Schön on a 7B with a really sloopy top-out:

Talking about sloopy top-outs, here Erik Heyman shows you what you’ll most likely face if you go climbing in Font:

When we go to the area Franchard Isatis, my friends were extremely close to convince me that I could easily warn up on a nice looking problem they pointed at. Their poker faces weren’t good enough though. The problem they had in mind turned out to be one of the classic really hard ones in Font; Karma 8A+. Here is the dutch climber Enzo Nahumury on Karma:

However, you can definetely find any kind of climbing you like in Font, not only slopers. Excellent dynos, slabs, technical aretes, power-problems…

Muscles ache, the skin is thin and the energy is below the red mark. The day is over.

How many pain chocolat can you eat during a rest day?

Eco-climbing in Thailand

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Jai Dum. It translates into black heart. But it is also the name of one of the best hard routes in southern Thailand, namely right on the beach at Tonsai.

I went to Tonsai to discover climbing on the beach, and enjoy the soft Thai life, and people. Grilled chicken, banana lassi, spicy egg noodles, and the ever so delicious Thai pancakes.

I also traveled to Thailand to write an article for the Swedish magazine Outside not only about the climbing scene, but also the environment. Most of us know very little of how these friendly Asian people react to the all increasing environmental pressure that is put upon us. So, do they react in any particular way? Are they as aware about the threatening
environmental pollution as we are in Europe? I’d say yes and maybe. Yes when it comes to regional and local work, but only maybe for more long term, sustainable and global work. Some of the poeple I talked to during the trip seemed to be honestly conserned, and very aware, of the environmental threat we are facing. But on the other hand, I also met people that didn’t care squat. For example: one restaurant “happened” to release its sewage straight out to the beach. Team Norway reacted very quickly though and confronted the owner, and prompted him to take care of the sewage internally.

Tonsai beach, right next to Freedom bar, a very relaxed place perfect for a moment of peace and calm watching the sunset over the Andaman sea. It’s also the perfect place if you like to watch some late night sendings on the steep routes in the roof next to the bar. Here is a guy trying Tidal Wave 7c, which might be one of the most frequently climbed routes in the world. It has almost constant traffic throughout the day, except for a few hours at mid day.

Humanility 6b is an excellent four pitch route above Freedom bar. Many climbers are astound when they reach the crux on the third pitch. Suddenly all the features for both hands and feet are gone. Gone. Unless…

Classic sunset photo, I know, but nevertheless pretty?

View over Tonsai beach with its grand wall. To the right is the magnificent Thaiwand wall with several multipitch routes of good quality. Maad, a Tonsai beach resort manager, told me that Tonsai is quite unique; it’s one of very few beaches in the region that has real forest growing all the way down to the beach. Usually there is only palm trees growing on the beach. Saving the forest is the common goal for all forteen land owners on Tonsai beach, according to Maad.

Next stop on the trip was the small island Lao Liang a few hours south of Krabi. Very small, very peaceful, very nice. Super relaxing. You live in tents right on the beach, and has a handful of decent routes within 30 seconds beach-walk.

I think all the guests at Lao Liang are struck by the heavy artillery present on the island. Hard bolied men with camoflage uniforms?? Well, they turned out to be park rangers working to control fisching quotas, and fight back bird nests thiefs. These guys take the job seriously, and seemed to be truly interested and engaged in doing their part in saving the globe.

Stay tuned for the article in Outside in the fall.